Coming to you live from camp at Spanglung at 5250 meters. We arrived during a torrential hailstorm filled with lightning and all sorts of goodies. I had split with the group just after brunch, and I chose a path that allowed me to somehow catch up with the staff and horses about 30 minutes ahead of the rest of the group. After walking another 30 minutes uphill with Tempa, the clouds started to dump. We luckily had just about made it to our campsite and everyone started getting all the gear off the horses asap. Since this usually is a 45 minute process in sunny skies, there was no way it was going to be a smooth in these conditions. I was of minimal help, and after throwing tarp over all our bags, Tempa yelled at me to get under the tarp myself. By this point the hail was intense and lightning was on top of us so I gladly obliged and chilled under the tarp for the next 15 minutes while the staff went to work setting up camp as best they could.
Eventually the storm let up, and they came to take me out from under the tarp. It was hilarious. Slowly they started building tents and warming water as the rest of the team arrived. All were much wetter than myself. It was certainly uncomfortable for an hour but now everyone is dried off, warmed up, and relaxing as we sit inside a cloud.
This is definitely the most excitement we've had yet on the trek. The last couple of days were absolutely amazing as we trekked through the vast valley of Tso Kar, with endless desert landscapes surrounded by snowcapped peaks and a gorgeous lake. I actually went for a swim as we walked past the lake. It is quite salty, and was fun to float in, though nowhere near as bouyant as I was in the dead sea. I wonder if it is the highest (4500meter) saltwater lake, as that would be a nice feather in my cap to have swam in both the highest and lowest saltwater lakes.
The night before we reached the lake valley, we stayed in another spectacular valley where a nomad tent nearby was selling rum, so I bought a bottle to share with the staff and Tempa whipped up a mixer of water, ginger, cinnamon, and lemon, and it was fantastic. Our staff is truly awesome. They are fun, smart, strong, hard-working, and passionate about mountain exploration. They all do their best to communicate in English while I learn a little bit of ladakhi, nepali, and tjbetan from them. Harish, the main horseman, is my favorite. Dude just got a haircut and with his ballcap and sunglasses looks total gangster just like Eazy E. Vivek rocks a Chicago white sox sweater. I want them to trade to complete the look.
I've been extremely disciplined with my yoga practice, waking up every morning around 5:25, and getting in at least an hour of practice before breakfast. I think the breathing exercises have been incredibly useful for adjusting to the altitude, and the surya namaskar and headstands as well have made me feel great throughout the days. I have some great scorpion pics that I look forward to sharing.
Pooping has been an adventure! I am averaging about 4 sizable movements per day. They are of a nice consistency just above the threshold of diarrhea. Sliding right out without explosions. I'm getting really good at the squatting and I've finally figured out how to do it without entirely removing my pants. It's heavenly, as it feels like everything I'm eating is either being converted into energy or passing right through me. I am eating like a King of vegetables and grains, so it's also rather healthy. I just need to cut down on crackers and tea. Still peeing in the middle of the night is annoying me. The other thing is, my farts are deathly. Must be the eggs or some seasoning Tempa is using. I really am not sure if I'll be able to continue to use this sleeping bag after the trip unless it gets fumigated.
I tore up cricket our first night at the lake. They couldn't get me out and I just kept smashing the ball over everyone's head. I eventually broke the ball in half and one half got caught, thus ending my innings. I'm definitely going to figure out a way to play legit cricket when I finish this trip.
Speaking of returning to reality. These past 3 days have given me ample opportunity to really do some soul-searching. The long gorgeous big-sky walks allowed our group to separate, and I had hours at a time where I put in my headphones, enjoyed some great mixes, and just took in the scenery, oblivious to my body. This meditative vibe was pure bliss.
I also just got through Gandhi's autobiography last night. While the book was a bit long, it was full of incredibly inspirational passages and stories that I found very meaningful.
So I'm going to save my "spiritual" thoughts for another blog, as I'd like to keep that separate from the physical recap.
Tomorrow is supposed to be a rest day, as the team needs to acclimate to sleeping at this altitude (same as Mt. Everest base camp). Wednesday morning the plan is to explore 3 6000 meter peaks just above us. However, I am feeling very strong and Luke and I might head out tonight and try to sneak in an additional 6350 meter summit if the weather is decent. If we succeed, that is higher than any point in all of North America. Will keep you posted.